![]() ![]() We'll see if the pomegranate and gingko trees transplant come spring. The stuff in the greenhouse should have been brought indoors sooner as they won't be out in the yard ever (lemon, lime, orange, banana). ![]() I planted another apple tree a couple years ago, so no fruit yet, but it's caught the same fungus. I'm going to try and get it pruned soon and then spray it in the spring. As to the fruit trees, there's on sad little green apple tree that was on the property but it's never been pruned so the fruit is way small, and it has some sort of fungus or something. The gal at the hatchery thinks they just don't do well in tanks. The next time it took about a week for them all to die. The first batch died within 24 hours and the hatchery gave me a refund, saying they had some trouble with that batch too. I did try some catfish last year, but they all died. I will go with trout or perch.I know it's too cold here for tilapia and, even if there were no problems with the greenhouse, I was only marginally supplementing the heat in there. I want to get food fish this time (that was the point of this afterall!). I do want to restore the system since it otherwise was working well - plants grew well and the goldfish thrived. (Have replacements on order, but that puts me another year behind in getting any fruit from them). One for sure is dead and I'm not sure I'll save the other three. I'm more upset that I foolishly left some fruit trees out in the greenhouse even after the first storm did some damage. I have some ideas about building a new door way. Most of the panels I'd screwed in, but a few I had not when I was just starting to put them in. ![]() Finally, another storm totally tore off part of the door track, which caused some panels over the door to blow away (one ceiling panel came off too). I was using polyethylene plastic to insulate the green house - like a wrap - and that got blown off multiple times. The doors were facing south and a previous storm had bent the track. If you can seal the crack with little effort, I would probably be inclined to try that first, although it's not what a plumber would do.Īlso, if the water level in the toilet as you have now adjusted it gives you a decent flush, you can just leave it as it is and save the water.My greenhouse is one of those 10 x 12 Harbor Freight ones - aluminum and polycarbonate plastic panels. It's not a difficult install usually the hardest part is getting the underneath-the-tank nut on the old flush valve to turn the metal ones tend to rust in place and I have had to actually cut off the nut with a Dremel tool on a couple of our toilets because no amount of leverage would turn the nut on the shaft.Įven though it's not complicated to replace the flush valve, it is still more of a pain than replacing a fill valve, which is easy. If you want to replace it, Korky makes a pretty-decent flush valve with a twist-lock that lets you easily raise and lower the level of the overflow you don't have to cut it with a hacksaw like most overflow riser replacements. You can use waterproof tape around the top of the overflow riser to seal the crack it's a common place that overflow risers crack. ![]() See Item 6(c) and the associated drawing here: Korky hears this concern over and over and over again, and so the instructions on the valve used to be quite clear in explaining this now they are a little more muted "Normal water flow from 3 areas" - it doesn't really say don't worry about the drips anymore, but that's what they are saying. The purpose of the valve is to put water into the toilet tank, so it doesn't matter whether a few drips fall off of it into the tank or not where the water comes from on the valve is of no importance as long as it ends up in the tank. It won't drip water when it's not filling. (Eeeew.)īecause of this anti-siphon feature on the fill valve, it's going to drip water from a few places in the valve while filling. you drain your house piping for some reason), the water in the toilet tank isn't going to be sucked back into your potable water system. Your Korky 528 is an anti-siphon fill valve, which means that if there is suction within your potable water piping in your house (i.e. ![]()
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